Replacing The Brake Caliper Assembly on your 2008-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer

To do this, you will need a new OEM Mitsubishi Brake Caliper Assembly for the 2008-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer: Mitsubishi Part Number 4605A859.

We should also make sure you know that we would love to have our award-winning service department do this for you. If you don’t want to replace the Brake Caliper Assembly in your vehicle, schedule an appointment with our service depart. You can visit our website to make an appointment.

If you do, however, wish to replace the part yourself, the video shared below will assist you in doing so.

First, the part in question. Here is what it looks like:

OEM Mitsubishi Caliper Assembly for 2008-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer: Mitsubishi Part Number 4605A859
Order This Brake Caliper Here
OEM Mitsubishi Caliper Assembly for 2008-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer: Mitsubishi Part Number 4605A859
Order This Brake Caliper Here
OEM Mitsubishi Caliper Assembly for 2008-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer: Mitsubishi Part Number 4605A859
Order This Brake Caliper Here
OEM Mitsubishi Caliper Assembly for 2008-2017 Mitsubishi Lancer: Mitsubishi Part Number 4605A859
Order This Brake Caliper Here



In the following video, YouTuber ChrisFix demonstrates how to change a brake caliper assembly. Please note that he is not working on a Mitsubishi Vehicle, so it’s possible that not every bit of detail will apply. But this will give you a general idea on how to do it yourself, should you choose to do so. The transcript of the video is shared below, if you want to follow along. Punctuation has not been added.

hey guys chrisfix here today I’m gonna

show you how to replace a brake caliper

the caliper on my brakes went bad after

changing out all the brakes I noticed

that it was leaking and if these things

leak they need to be replaced or rebuilt

this is gonna show you how to replace

them it’s pretty easy if you could do

the brakes on your car you could replace

a brake caliper so here are all the

tools you’re gonna need to do the job

it’s a bunch of different ratchets

opening a wrench threadlocker different

size sockets and extension a breaker bar

a torque wrench and some brake fluid now

let’s begin the first step is going to

be to get the brake pads out to get

these brake pads out we just unscrew

this bolt back here this is 12

millimeter and we’ll undo the top one to

open this up like a clamshell got that

out now this should just pop right open

just like a clamshell good like I said

these are brand new brakes just a little

bit of rust from the rain from last

night so we’ll put these right back in

when we’re done now just close this back

up put our bolt back in and will you

just hand tighten this before we unbolt

the caliper from the knuckle what we’re

gonna want to do is there’s a banjo bolt

here that brings the brake fluid into

the caliper we want to crack that Plus

right now it’s connected you know it’s

solid if we try to crack this later

we’re gonna do it on a bench and it’s

gonna move around so now is a good time

to crack this just get your ratchet this

is a 15 millimeter just crack it open

brake fluids coming out so then I’m

gonna close this so now that I broke

this bolt it’ll be no problem take off

later now we’re gonna remove the caliper

bracket bolts that connect the caliper

to the knuckle now we’re looking from

the back of the caliper we have to take

two bolts off there’s this bolt right up

here that needs to come out and that

bolt down here that needs to come out

the caliper bracket bolts are usually on

here pretty tight so I’m going to be

using a breaker bar nice and long a lot

of leverage this bolt that you need to

get off is right there this is a 15

millimeter in my case do the top one


good now I’ll do the bottom one good and

now we can use a regular ratchet to get

both bolts out completely

that’s one so one thing to remember is

we have the top bolt off now we’re

undoing the bottom one after the bottom

one there’s nothing to hold this up so

we want to hang on to the caliper so it

doesn’t just drop got the second one out

now I have a bucket here ready and

that’ll hold the brake caliper you don’t

want to have any pressure on this brake

hose because you could damage it we’re

not replacing the brake hose

we’re only replacing the caliper while

doing this I should mention this brake

rotors gonna want to move around so what

I do is I hold it down I get one of my

lug nuts I tighten it all the way down

and I’ll just add one more to the other

side give it even more stability so this

rotor doesn’t move at all now that’s

gonna help us it’s gonna keep this in

place so it’ll make putting the new

caliper on a lot easier I added a box on

top of the bucket just so that raises it

up even more just so that there’s even

less stress on this it’ll also allow me

to turn this like that so I could

unscrew this now with this brake caliper

here completely off let’s put the new

one on

since we’re bolting on the caliper get

the caliper bolts and we add some

Loctite threadlocker

on each one and that’ll just prevent

vibrations from loosening this up get

our new caliper put it into place slip

our bolt in there

hand tighten this caliper bolt in with

the top one in get the bottom one

aligned and hand tighten it now we’ll

get in here snug this up for now

and we’ll snug the bottom bolt as well

now with this caliper mounted it’ll make

transferring this banjo bolt and the

brake line to the new caliper a lot

easier and a lot less messy our kit

comes with these anti-rattle clips and

we’ll put these on later what we need

from that is these two copper washers

there are socket 15 millimeter crack

that and then loosen it up right away

brake fluids gonna start leaking out so

we’re gonna make this transfer real

quick take your banjo bolt out I’m gonna

clean off the banjo bolt you can see it

has a hole in it on the bottom and on

the side and that allows the brake fluid

to flow through this when looking at

your banjo bolt you can see that one of

the copper washers is flattened down on

here really good it actually doesn’t

even look like there is a wash around

here but make sure you get it off

there’s also a copper washer on this

which is the brake line so make sure you

take that off so make sure you get

something to get this washer out that’s

very important good get that off and

I’ll take our new one just slide our new

one on all the way slide it into brake

line get your other washer put it on the

bottom and then this bolts right in real

quick no mess it’s a little messy on

here but there’s no mess on the new

caliper and we’re gonna just quickly

Snug this okay that’s snugged enough

that it won’t weak so you can see how

the banjo bolt gets set up there’s a

copper washer at the top you can see

there’s this lip thing here that

actually goes on the top I know it looks

like it should probably go on the bottom

but it goes on the top and then

underneath is another copper washer so

the copper washers compress really well

and they press against this and they

prevent leaks because this brake system

is under a lot of pressure so you don’t

want any leaks that’s why those copper

washers are there I should mention that

a lot of people like to clamp the brake

line I don’t like to do that because it

cause permanent damage to the brake line

if you clamp this to try to prevent

fluid from coming out you could crush

the tubing in here and also you could

crack this and it’s just gonna make you

have to replace this whole brake line

here with the brake line transferred we

could get this hole

all / and bucket set up out of the way

make more room now we have all that room

we could start working on this getting

the brake pads in and also bleeding the

brakes so before we do anything else

let’s just torque this down on my truck

the banjo bolt gets torqued down to 25

foot-pounds remember have both the

washers on there

right now this torque is gonna impress

the washers against the surfaces making

a nice and solid seal and there we go 25

foot-pounds so the caliper bracket bolts

on my truck get tightened down to 85

foot-pounds that’s the top one and

that’s the bottom one with everything

torqued down and tighten let’s put the

brake pads in this is a 13 millimeter

which is different from before the old

calipers were 12 good now this will open

up like a clamshell

remember that we have these brake

anti-rattle clips this holds the brake

pads in so they don’t shake around and

vibrate if you don’t know where these go

reference your old brake caliper this

large one here goes on the top it has

two clips that just click in just like

so and these smaller ones actually

mounts the bracket so if we’re looking

down at the bracket you could kind of

see the brake pads sitting here and in

the bracket you can see there’s a little

divot so this just quite simply fits in

that divot you just push down just like

so and the other one same thing set for

the top bracket just get the fit in and

it clicks right in just like that again

if you don’t remember where they go just

look at the old caliper you could see

that big one goes in the middle just

like it does there and then the two side

ones go on the caliper bracket right


and the other ones right up there just

like we did up here now since this is a

brand new caliper even though I have

brand new brake pads we don’t need to

compress these Pistons these pistons

already compressed all the way so you

just take your brake pad and these brake

pads just slide right into those clips

that you just put in and that’s where

they mount

you want to add grease to the brake

parts that have metal and metal contact

on the caliper make sure you use very

little grease when doing this you’ll

grease where the brake pads sit and

contact the caliper on those anti-rattle

clips that we’ve just installed shown by

the red circles and you’ll also want a

thin layer of grease on the back of the

brake pads shown in the red box do this

for both sides of the caliper and both

brake pads these brake pads have

leftover grease from the recent

installation I did so I’m not adding

more grease myself I don’t like using a

lot of grease the other side is the same

exact thing they just slide right in so

now both brake pads are in let’s close

up this caliper the CalPERS should just

close up you might need to give it a

little wiggle

now the springs should keep a little

resistance on the brake pads that’s the

whole point keeps them from rattling

keeps them from moving around so you can

see if I try to push this in it’ll

bounce back out that’s exactly what you

want so just get your bolt slide it in

push it down your brake as you slide

this in so it aligns then I’m gonna get

my 13 millimeter tighten it up on my

truck this gets torqued to 20


I just use this small one quarter inch

ratchet and that’s pretty much as hard

as I could pull upwards with one hand

and that’s good all we have to do is

bleep this brake system and we are done

so there’s our banjo bolt right above it

usually at the highest point of the

caliper we have our bleeder valve what

we’re gonna do is we’re gonna gravity

bleed it right now so that just means

you crack this open so I have a 3/8 inch

wrench that I’m just gonna crack this

open with I’m just gonna open it up just

like that might want to get a paper

towel and put it below so what’s

happening right now is just because of

gravity the brake fluid is filling up

the cylinder you have to remember that

the brake line is up here the master

cylinder is all the way up there so

gravity is just going to force that

brake fluid out and into this so we’re

just gonna wait for this to leak and

once this leaks I’ll close it up and

I’ll bleed it it also helps to loosen up

the master cylinder cat to let air in so

that it bleeds out faster just like that

once I open the cap it bleeds pretty

quickly so close that off remember brake

fluid is super

corrosive it’ll damage rubber it’ll

damage paint so I always try to clean it

up right away make sure it’s not on

anything now we should check our brake

fluid levels since we’ve lost a little

but this looks good so let’s bleed the

brakes so now here’s the bleeder that I

made it’s a self bleeder I’m gonna show

you how to make this in another video so

if you want to see how to make this I’ll

put the link to that video in the

description below and I’m also not gonna

go crazy explaining how to bleed brakes

if you don’t know how to do it then

check out my other video on how to bleed

brakes and that’ll also be in the

description below now if you want you

don’t need this fancy setup you could

just have somebody press on the brakes

as you crack that open I just do this

because I’m doing this by myself so I

made a one-man bleeder so I’m just gonna

crack this bleeder valve open and then

go in the car and press on the brakes

okay good I can see there’s bubbles in

here it’s getting forced out I’m gonna

keep bleeding until I don’t see any

bubbles here okay there’s no more

bubbles so I’m gonna just close off that

bleeder valve the good thing is all the

brake fluid gets caught over here and

the bubbles bubble out so when I close

off this bleeder valve there’s no air

getting trapped and one last thing since

we just bled the brakes go check the

master cylinder you can see this is a

little bit low so I’m just gonna add

some more fluid till it goes to the max

full-line good before you go on a test

drive make sure you pump your brakes to

make sure that there’s no air in them

you’ll feel like they’re soft or they go

to the floor if you didn’t bleed them

right if you didn’t bleed them right

just go ahead and bleed them again until

that brake pedal feels firm and remember

we’re your emergency brake is make sure

there’s nobody behind you or in front of

you when you’re testing the system out

don’t go fast to start make sure your

car breaks and then check for leaks

those are just some safety precautions

that I would take hopefully this video

was helpful 

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